Re-glueing seams on tabs
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- canhawk
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Re-glueing seams on tabs
I re-glued some overlap-type seams that were coming apart on some tabs. I cleaned cans, clearing out gap with toohbrush, then dried the cans. I mixed 2-part epoxy and applied it with a toothpick under seam along entire length. I clamped a pencil or flat wood stick to the seam using rubber bands. The key was wiping off excess glue, and making sure the wood stick lay on top of the overlap so that it did not get accidentally glued to the can. Results not too bad on the Schlitz. The Old Mil is a re-do because one side started splitting again.
Jeff Dankert, Peru, IL
12 oz Midwest beer cans (Iowa, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Nebraska, Missouri)
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
This would be a great thread to bookmark except I am too stupid to figure out how to bookmark it. Help!
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- henry porter
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
At the top left of the page, just below the new topic and post reply buttons, you should see some options including "Subscribe topic | Bookmark topic | Print view | E-mail friend".
Wanted: Malt Lager breweriana and Malt Lager cans:
8oz flats: Gluek Stite 241-05, Bulldog 239-10, Schlitz (Class Book) 56-13, 56-14.
12oz flats: Country Club 51-37, 51-37-5.
12oz tabs: Colt 56-22; Colt 45 56-05, 56-10, 56-11–05, 56-12; Country Club 57-18; Red Bird 239-32; Schlitz 121-15.
16oz tabs: Calgary 146-23; Carling 147-01, 147-01-05; Colt 147-22; Schlitz 166-10
Last 2 to complete the set: Suntory 354 and 364.
8oz flats: Gluek Stite 241-05, Bulldog 239-10, Schlitz (Class Book) 56-13, 56-14.
12oz flats: Country Club 51-37, 51-37-5.
12oz tabs: Colt 56-22; Colt 45 56-05, 56-10, 56-11–05, 56-12; Country Club 57-18; Red Bird 239-32; Schlitz 121-15.
16oz tabs: Calgary 146-23; Carling 147-01, 147-01-05; Colt 147-22; Schlitz 166-10
Last 2 to complete the set: Suntory 354 and 364.
- cantankerous
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
Here's a pic
Wanted: Malt Lager breweriana and Malt Lager cans:
8oz flats: Gluek Stite 241-05, Bulldog 239-10, Schlitz (Class Book) 56-13, 56-14.
12oz flats: Country Club 51-37, 51-37-5.
12oz tabs: Colt 56-22; Colt 45 56-05, 56-10, 56-11–05, 56-12; Country Club 57-18; Red Bird 239-32; Schlitz 121-15.
16oz tabs: Calgary 146-23; Carling 147-01, 147-01-05; Colt 147-22; Schlitz 166-10
Last 2 to complete the set: Suntory 354 and 364.
8oz flats: Gluek Stite 241-05, Bulldog 239-10, Schlitz (Class Book) 56-13, 56-14.
12oz flats: Country Club 51-37, 51-37-5.
12oz tabs: Colt 56-22; Colt 45 56-05, 56-10, 56-11–05, 56-12; Country Club 57-18; Red Bird 239-32; Schlitz 121-15.
16oz tabs: Calgary 146-23; Carling 147-01, 147-01-05; Colt 147-22; Schlitz 166-10
Last 2 to complete the set: Suntory 354 and 364.
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
I have that line of options at the bottom of the page under all the replies not at the top of the page - don't know why it is at the bottom?henry porter wrote:Here's a pic
Looking for any Guinness Items and any Continental Can Company items
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RB #898
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Will be at 2024 BCCA CANvention in Little Rock.
RB #898
BCCA #30861
Echuca, Australia
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
Here it is at the bottom of the page
Looking for any Guinness Items and any Continental Can Company items
Will be at 2024 BCCA CANvention in Little Rock.
RB #898
BCCA #30861
Echuca, Australia
Will be at 2024 BCCA CANvention in Little Rock.
RB #898
BCCA #30861
Echuca, Australia
- cantankerous
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
That is weird, I don't have anything at the bottom. Some option or setting?
Wanted: Malt Lager breweriana and Malt Lager cans:
8oz flats: Gluek Stite 241-05, Bulldog 239-10, Schlitz (Class Book) 56-13, 56-14.
12oz flats: Country Club 51-37, 51-37-5.
12oz tabs: Colt 56-22; Colt 45 56-05, 56-10, 56-11–05, 56-12; Country Club 57-18; Red Bird 239-32; Schlitz 121-15.
16oz tabs: Calgary 146-23; Carling 147-01, 147-01-05; Colt 147-22; Schlitz 166-10
Last 2 to complete the set: Suntory 354 and 364.
8oz flats: Gluek Stite 241-05, Bulldog 239-10, Schlitz (Class Book) 56-13, 56-14.
12oz flats: Country Club 51-37, 51-37-5.
12oz tabs: Colt 56-22; Colt 45 56-05, 56-10, 56-11–05, 56-12; Country Club 57-18; Red Bird 239-32; Schlitz 121-15.
16oz tabs: Calgary 146-23; Carling 147-01, 147-01-05; Colt 147-22; Schlitz 166-10
Last 2 to complete the set: Suntory 354 and 364.
- canhawk
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
After repairing a few more, I found that a round dowel or pencil cut to length works better than flat-sided pencil. And a 2-day epoxy cure is best before taking off rubber bands.
Jeff Dankert, Peru, IL
12 oz Midwest beer cans (Iowa, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Nebraska, Missouri)
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- Dammit Jim!
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
I have a couple of very nice cans that are close to perfect, other than they have glued seams that are coming apart. I guess American Can didn't plan for people to keep their cans 50 years after they were made! Any other suggestions or other adhesives that people have had success with?
Jim Peterson
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- willssoda
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
Cool is this the same method used when cans are rolled or do they have a different method and lue they use? Not looking to do this work just curious. Also curious if humidity has any effect on the glue breakdown?
Interested in all flat and Cone Soda and Water cans.
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
I don't think it's humidity since the two cans that I have are mint other than the seams. I would think that if it were humidity, the cans would have developed humidity spots, especially since one has metallic rings. My guess would be that the glue gets brittle over time and that temperature changes may play a factor is it coming apart if not causing the brittleness.
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
Gorilla Super Glue "Gel". Need to be very careful as it dries pretty fast; suggest practicing on some crap cans first!
- baartz
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
Great Timing! I was just looking into asking about this! Thanks Jim for pulling up this thread!
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
I bought Gorilla Glue liquid a couple of weeks ago. Probably would have got the gel had I seen it. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend. Don't really have any crap cans to practice with, but the ones that I need to glue aren't super valuable anyway.
Funny how that sometimes works out. I saved you a search
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
After gluing, I put a thin piece of scrap wood or metal (the length of the can in between 2 lids so that it lays flat on the can) on the upper side of seam and held it in place with a vise grip and let it dry for a day or 2. Put another piece of longer scrap on other side of can so that it go over lid lips and vise grip doesn’t crush can. Good Luck!
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
Definitely food for thought. I bought a bag of rubber bands, but then it's a matter of how quickly you can get a ton of rubber bands on there without getting them in the glue while holding a dowel in place. I have a pair of high clearance vice-grips that would be perfect for this. I'll have to see what I have for scrap wood that would work.Pbama wrote: ↑Fri Jan 14, 2022 10:52 pm After gluing, I put a thin piece of scrap wood or metal (the length of the can in between 2 lids so that it lays flat on the can) on the upper side of seam and held it in place with a vise grip and let it dry for a day or 2. Put another piece of longer scrap on other side of can so that it go over lid lips and vise grip doesn’t crush can. Good Luck!
Jim Peterson
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- willssoda
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
In my experience with Gorilla it expands. I would think this would be an issue? Does the gel act differently?
Interested in all flat and Cone Soda and Water cans.
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
Didn’t see any issues with expansion on the 2 cans I glued.
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Re: Re-glueing seams on tabs
Ok, anyone else experience this?
Interested in all flat and Cone Soda and Water cans.