Rusty Bunchers:
Had a discussion with my friend Chris about waxing cans. He had suggested a brand and method for mint flats, but wanted more input on dumpers, grade 1-2 where there was spotty rust.
A suggested brand (not a stockholder, so not promoting) was "Turtle wax & shine" in a spray bottle.
How would you suggest to do a grade 1-2 tflat/cone that has rust? Would you do the top and bottom if they were rusty.
Wanted to get input and tips prior to starting another project.
Regards,
Mike
Current tips on brands and methods to wax
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Re: Current tips on brands and methods to wax
Back when I packed my collection in 1983 the advice I got was to use Jubilee floor wax. I put a generous coat on all my cans, from shiny to crusty. They were unpacked for the first time in 2013. I can attest that there was no yellowing, staining or fading and considering they were stored in an attic with zero concern for environmental control, they came out looking just as they did when they went in.
Bear in mind, this is just my anecdotal experience and I do not own anything of real value.
Bear in mind, this is just my anecdotal experience and I do not own anything of real value.
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Re: Current tips on brands and methods to wax
This was a post I did on this from 2014 http://www.therustybunch.com/phpBB3/vie ... &hilit=wax
Living in Florida a low humidity is 60%. I have used Meguiar's cleaner wax on my cans for 20+ years. Never had an issue with one of them developing any yellowing, humidity spots, or rust. Below is a post I put up in a previous thread.
I started waxing my cans after noticing how nice and shinny and clean feeling the big dealers cans are. And what a difference it has made in their appearance. I also use Meguiar's Cleaner Wax in the maroon bottle. It really cleans them up and the wax is easy to apply and remove. You will not believe the dirt that you will get off a can that you thought was clean.
I don't wax any cans with rust, but do wax cans with minor humidity spotting and it seems to keep it in check.
Here is my process. Get a roll of very soft paper towels. Don't use the cheap stuff as it is very rough and may scratch the cans.
1) Remove any excess dirt or dust with a damp paper towel and wipe dry
2) Using a clean paper towel, fold it in half several times and apply a liberal amount of wax starting at the seam moving around the can. This will remove the dirt you can feel, but not see.
3) Using another clean paper towel apply a second coat of wax. You can do the seam and lids if you like. I always do the seams last because the bare metal sometimes turns the wax black.
4) Let the wax rest for about a minute then using another clean paper towel buff to a shine. I lay the can flat on a table and start at one seam and use fast strokes to buff the can out.
5) Next I buff the lids and seam.
6) Lastly I use a very soft bristle toothbrush to remove any extra wax around the rims on in the seam. You can use a wood toothpick to remove any tough white buildup from inside the seam or around the lids.
I've never had an issue with paint loss and am always happy with the nice clean and shinny can. Try is on some of those 1970s cans and see what a difference it makes.
Living in Florida a low humidity is 60%. I have used Meguiar's cleaner wax on my cans for 20+ years. Never had an issue with one of them developing any yellowing, humidity spots, or rust. Below is a post I put up in a previous thread.
I started waxing my cans after noticing how nice and shinny and clean feeling the big dealers cans are. And what a difference it has made in their appearance. I also use Meguiar's Cleaner Wax in the maroon bottle. It really cleans them up and the wax is easy to apply and remove. You will not believe the dirt that you will get off a can that you thought was clean.
I don't wax any cans with rust, but do wax cans with minor humidity spotting and it seems to keep it in check.
Here is my process. Get a roll of very soft paper towels. Don't use the cheap stuff as it is very rough and may scratch the cans.
1) Remove any excess dirt or dust with a damp paper towel and wipe dry
2) Using a clean paper towel, fold it in half several times and apply a liberal amount of wax starting at the seam moving around the can. This will remove the dirt you can feel, but not see.
3) Using another clean paper towel apply a second coat of wax. You can do the seam and lids if you like. I always do the seams last because the bare metal sometimes turns the wax black.
4) Let the wax rest for about a minute then using another clean paper towel buff to a shine. I lay the can flat on a table and start at one seam and use fast strokes to buff the can out.
5) Next I buff the lids and seam.
6) Lastly I use a very soft bristle toothbrush to remove any extra wax around the rims on in the seam. You can use a wood toothpick to remove any tough white buildup from inside the seam or around the lids.
I've never had an issue with paint loss and am always happy with the nice clean and shinny can. Try is on some of those 1970s cans and see what a difference it makes.
Chuck
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